Two minutes downhill from the house, a cobbled path drops to Damouchari – a tiny old harbour of white pebbles and clear, cold water, ringed by olive trees and the ruins of an old castle. You may recognise it: scenes from Mamma Mia! were filmed right here in 2007.
Come early, while the cove is still in shade and the water is glassy. Swim out to the rock, dry off on the warm pebbles, and have a coffee or a plate of grilled fish at the little taverna on the harbour. It is the kind of morning you will still be thinking about in winter.